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Structure Tips

When the roof leaks or the walls crack, what are you supposed to do? Get answers in our structural tips provided by the experts at Burel and Associates, LLC. We can tell you how to find that leak and plug it up or make your basement stairs safe. Find your particular problem in this list and click for professional help.

Hinged Doors
Sliding Doors
Door Locksets
Solving Lockset Problems
Baseboard Shoe Moldings
Ceiling Tiles
Fireplaces and Fire Safety
Gypsum Wallboard
Paneled
Plastered Walls
Wallpaper
Window Coverings
Wood Flooring
Squeaky Stairs
The Roof
Chimneys
Basement
Bathroom
Storm and Screen Doors
Gutters and Downspouts
Siding
Window Screens and Storm Windows

Sliding Doors

Removing Three Types of Sliding Doors

Lift a bottom-supported door straight up to clear the track. To remove, sharply angle the lower part of the door outward, You may need a helper to hold the door.
Lift a top-hung door straight up and angle it to lift the rollers out of the track. (Some top-hung doors have notches on the track that you must align with the rollers before you can lift the door out.)
On a pocket door, remove both stops from the head jamb and one side jamb stop to allow the door to swing out. To remove, angle the bottom out, then lift it up.

Three Sliding Door Adjustments

Use a hammer and wood block to straighten a bent metal track. Replace a badly bent or broken track.
Check the alignment of the guide if the door binds. Reposition the guide so the door doesn't catch on it.
Adjust the roller height at both ends of a dragging door until the door is correctly aligned.

Door Locksets

Replacing a Cylindrical Lockset

Push a screwdriver into the slot on the shank (or insert a nail into the hole) or push the shank button to release the interior knob.
Snap off the rose.
Unscrew and remove the mounting plate.
Slip out the exterior knob and cylinder.
Unscrew and remove the face plate, latch assembly and strike plate.
Insert and screw on the new latch assembly and face plate.
Holding the exterior knob and cylinder, slide the cylinder in and engage it with the latch assembly.
Attach the mounting plate.
Snap on the interior rose.
Screw on the new strike plate and check that the latch engages in the strike plate.

Replacing a Mortise Lockset

Remove the interior knob, deadbolt knob, exterior handle and any trim.
Remove the spindle (a two-piece type will have to be unhooked in the middle.)
On the face plate, loosen the setscrew opposite the cylinder.
Unscrew and remove the cylinder by hand.
Unscrew the face plate and remove the lock body.
Slip the new lock body into the mortise and fasten the face plate flush with the door edge.
Install the cylinder and mount the exterior handle, deadbolt knob and interior knob.
Install the strike plate so it sits flush with the jamb edge.
Check that the latch bolt and deadbolt engage the strike plate correctly.
Make any necessary adjustments.
Install any decorative trim.

Solving Lockset Problems

Latch Sticks or Responds Slowly

Problem:

Gummed up or dirty lock mechanism

Remedy:

Blow a pinch of graphite into lock mechanism or keyway or inject light penetrating oil or silicone spray.

Key Doesn't Insert Smoothly

Problems:

Dirty keyway and tumbler area
Foreign object in keyway

Remedies:

Blow a pinch of graphite or spray silicone spray into keyway (do not use oil.)
Attempt to dislodge object with thin, stiff wire.

Lock is Frozen

Problem:

Accumulated moisture frozen solid

Remedy:

Chip ice from opening and carefully heat key with a match. Insert key in lock and work gently until ice melts.

Key is Broken in Lock

Problem:

Improperly inserted key, ill-fitting replacement key or wrong key forced into lock.

Remedy:

Remove broken key with thin, stiff hooked wire or with blade of a coping saw. If this doesn't work, remove lock cylinder and push key fragment out from other side with thin, stiff wire.

Latch Bolt Doesn't Engage or Disengage Easily

Problem:

Door loose on hinges or otherwise misaligned

Remedy:

Correct door problem and make any adjustments required to align latch bolt and strike plate.

Latch Bolt Doesn't Extend Fully into Strike Plate

Problems:

Shrunken wood in door
Shallow mortise or misaligned strike plate

Remedies:

Shim out hinges or strike plate or both.
Deepen mortise or reposition strike plate.

Key Won't Turn in Lock

Problems:

Cylinder turned in face plate
Poorly duplicated key
Damaged tumblers

Remedies:

Move cylinder to proper position.
Check key against original. Replace if necessary.
Replace cylinder or entire lockset.

Key Turns but Doesn't Operate Locking Mechanism

Problem:

Broken lock mechanism

Remedy

Repair or replace lockset.

Baseboard and Shoe Moldings

Installed where the floor and walls meet, baseboards (also called base molding) and shoe moldings hide uneven floor and wall joints and protect walls from damage caused by foot traffic, furniture and cleaning tools. Often, they become so dented or marred that they warrant replacement.

Buying Materials

Take a piece of the old materials with you when you shop. You may think you'll remember what it looks like, but there are many standard patterns and sizes.
When ordering, specify thickness first, then width and length (both thickness and length are measured at their widest points).
Buy a supply of finishing nails (size depends on the thickness of the baseboard and molding).

Replacing Baseboards and Shoe Moldings

When removing sections of baseboard and shoe molding, be careful not to damage the wall behind them. For protection, use a wood block behind the prybar as you work and pry only at studs.
Insert the thin end of a broad-bladed prybar between the baseboard and shoe molding.
Pry outward along the molding to loosen it.
Pull the molding carefully away from the baseboard and remove nails.
Place the thin end of the prybar between the baseboard and wall (use a wood block to protect the wall) and pry outward to make a gap.
Insert wood wedges in the gap as you pry.
When the baseboard is loose, pull it free.
Remove remaining nails from the baseboard and wall.
Measure the replacement basebaord and shoe molding against the damaged pieces.
Mark cutting lines with a pencil.
Use a miter box and back saw to cut replacement baseboard and shoe molding.
Saw the pieces on the waste side of the cutting line.
Position the baseboard.
Drive nails at each stud.
Position the shoe molding and nail into the sole plate at each stud.
Sink nails, fill and finish.

Ceiling Tiles

Prefabricated ceiling tiles are attached either to an existing ceiling or to furring strips. Staples or nails, either with or without adhesive, or adhesive alone are used to secure the tiles. Often ceiling tiles show the effect of water damage. To conceal stains or streaks in tiles, apply a primer or clear sealer. When the tiles are dry, you can paint them with latex paint.

Replacing a Damaged Ceiling Tile

Cut through all four joints of the damage tile and use a prybar to remove it.
Remove remaining staples or nails and scrape adhesive off with a putty knife.
Cut the tongue from one edge of the new tile using a utility knife and a straight edge.
Apply adhesive. Slip the tongue into the adjacent tile's groove and brace until dry.

Paneled Walls

Solid board paneling is made up of 1/4 to 3/4 inch thick hardwood or softwood boards ranging from 3 to 12 inches wide. Boards may have square edges, but most often are milled to overlap or interlock. Milling may be tongue-an-groove or shiplap. The paneling may be attached to studs, furring strips or wallboard.

Repairing Minor Scratches and Gouges

Fill shallow scratches and gouges with a putty stick.
Choose a color that matches the finish of your paneling.
Wipe away any excess putty with a clean cloth.
You can also conceal minor scratches with furniture polish or an almond stick ( a compressed-fabric stick impregnated with oil).

Repairing Dents and Deep Gouges

Remove all the finish from the dent site.
Place a damp cloth and hot iron over the dent until the wood fibers rise to the level of the surrounding surface.
Let the wood dry thoroughly before sanding it smooth and refinishing the area to match.
For a deep gouge or a nail hole, fill with a matching wood putty using a flexible putty knife to apply the putty.
Let dry, then sand smooth with fine-grade sandpaper wrapped around a sanding block.
Finish it to match the surrounding area.

Wood Veneer Sheet Paneling

Sheet paneling may have a veneer of wood, simulated wood or even fabric or vinyl. Of these, wood veneer responds best to repair, though even your most careful efforts may show.

Repairing Minor Scratches and Nicks

Use a putty stick to "dray" over the mark, choosing a color that matches the paneling and wipe away any excess putty with a clean cloth.
You can also hide scratches with shoe polish (test first), floor wax or an almond stick.
For a more detailed job, sand lightly with fine steel wool or fine-grade sanding paper, applying less pressure toward the edges.
Wipe away any residue and apply wood stain with a cotton swab.
After it's dry, lightly buff the area again with a fine abrasive and wipe away the sanding residue.
Spray a light coat of varnish on the area and let it dry.
Lightly buff again with a fine abrasive.
If the original panels were waxed, wax the entire panel and buff to a sheen with a clean cloth.

Plastered Walls

Plastered walls are composed of three layers: a base coat, a thick coat of plaster for strength and a finishing coat for appearance. These may be applied over wood lath, metal mesh, special gypsum wallboard or masonry.

Patching Fine Cracks

Widen the crack to about 1/8-inch with the tip of a lever-type can opener.
Blow out the dust and debris.
With your finger or a putty knife, fill the crack with spackle.
Sand the spackle when dry, using a block wrapped with fine-grade sandpaper, sanding in a circular motion.
Prime the patch with sealer before painting.

Patching Wide Cracks

Undercut the crack with a lever-type can opener or a putty knife to help bond the new plaster.
Blow out dust and debris.
Dampen the crack with a wet paintbrush or sponge.
Use a putty knife to fill just over half the depth of the crack with patching plaster.
Score the plaster with a nail when firm, but not hard, to provide "bite" for the next layer.
Wet the dry patch again.
Use a broad knife to apply the next layer to within 1/8 to 1/4 inch of the surface.
Let the patch dry before applying the finish coat.
Fill with finishing plaster and scrape with a straight edge to remove excess plaster.
Experiment with different ways to achieve a good match for existing textures.
When dry, prime and paint.

Wallpaper

As wallpaper ages, it's subject to loosened edges, tears, bubbles and other damage, which can be easily repaired. When making a repair, use lap-and-seam adhesive to hold the wallpaper in place. A seam roller helps you press the wallpaper smoothly to the wall.

Repairing Loose Edges

Moisten the damaged area and carefully lift the wallpaper away from the wall. Apply a thin, even layer of adhesive to the back of the paper.
Press the wallpaper back in place.
Sponge off any excess adhesive, taking care not to soak the paper so much that the adhesive loosens behind the paper.

Patching Damaged Wallpaper

Align the replacement patch so the pattern exactly matches the pattern on the damaged section.
Attach the patch to the wall with masking tape or tacks.
Cut through both the patch and the wallpaper underneath simultaneously using a utility knife and steel straight edge.
Remove the patch and set it aside.
Dampen the scored wallpaper with a wet sponge and peel it off.
Scrape off scraps and adhesive with a putty knife.
Clean the wall and let it dry. Apply a thin layer of adhesive to the back of the patch.
Position the patch carefully and smooth it with a clean, damp cloth or a seam roller. Wipe off excess adhesive.

Professional Tip: Cleaning Washable Wallpaper

Test the wallpaper before washing to make sure it really is washable. To remove dirt, grease and stains, thoroughly sponge the soiled area with a solution of mild soap and cold water. Rinse with clear, cold water. Wipe dry with a clean, absorbent cloth

Solving Window Shade Problems

Replacing Rollers and Shades

If the old roller and shade fit well, measure the width of the old roller, unroll the shade completely and measure the length.
An alternate method is to measure the window opening. For mounting inside the frame, measure the distance between the brackets on the side jambs to determine the roller width. Measure from the top jamb to the stool and add 8 inches to determine the shade length.
For mounting outside the frame, measure the distance between the brackets for the roller width. Then measure from the middle of the top casing to the stool and add 8 inches for the shade length.
To cut a replacement roller to size, remove the cloth and remove the barrel and stationary pin. Make the cut with a saw (be careful not to cut off the spring.) Replace the barrel and pin in the exact center of the end of the roller.
To cut a shade to size, unroll it completely. Square the corners and measure the shade's new width at several points. Mark it with a straight edge. Cut the shade to size with a pair of scissors. Shorten the bottom slat as needed and drill a new hole for the pull cord. Align the top edge of the shade with the roller guideline and staple it in place.

Shade Winds Up Too Quickly

Problem is tight spring tension.
To remedy, roll up shade, remove roller from bracket and partially unroll shade.
Replace roller and test. If not fixed, try again or replace

Shade Winds Up Too Slowly

Problem is loose spring tension.
To remedy, pull shade down about 24 inches letting ratchet tooth catch.
Remove roller from brackets and reroll shade about 6 or 8 inches.
Replace roller and test. If not fixed, try again or replace

Shade Binds

Problem is brackets are too close together.
Remedy by hammering brackets out, bending them out or repositioning them.
If shade is mounted inside window frame, trim stationary pin with a hacksaw or heavy-duty cutting pliers.

Shade Wobbles

Problem is bent stationary pin.
Remedy by straightening pin with pliers or replacing pin.

Shade Falls From Its Brackets

Problem is brackets that are too far apart.
Remedy by moving brackets in slightly.
If shade is mounted inside window frame, shim out one or both of the brackets.

Shade Doesn't Catch

Problem is pawl not catching.
Remedy by brushing dirt off pawl and ratchet tooth and lubricating with graphite.

Silencing Squeaky Stairs

Can't tiptoe up the stairs without waking up the whole house? Simple remedies include squirting powdered or liquid graphite between boards or dusting cracks between boards with talcum powder. You can also apply floor oil to the floor of a few drops of mineral oil between boards. (Use mineral oil sparingly: too much can stain the surface of the floor. If these methods don't work, try the remedies below.

Three Ways to Silence Squeaks from Above

Place a carpeted 2x4 at a right angle to squeaky boards. Move it in a rectangular patter, tapping it sharply with a hammer to reseat any loose boards.
Coat glazier's points with graphite and hammer them between boards. Sink the points well using a hammer and the edge of a putty knife.
Drill angled pilot holes through the board, into the subfloor and, if possible, into a joist. Drive in nails. Countersink and fill.

Three Ways to Silence Squeaks from Below

Tap a shim into the gap between a joist and the subfloor. Don't force it our may widen the gap.
Drill holes slightly smaller than screw threads. Install washers and wood screws (1/4 inch shorter than total floor thickness.)
Mount a cleat against a joist under loose boards. Prop and tap so the cleat is snub against the subfloor. Nail to the joist.

Storm and Screen Doors

Door Closers

All storm and screen doors should have a door closer-either a simple chain-linked snubber or a pneumatic or hydraulic type. The closer ensures that the door closes smoothly and protects the door from being opened too wide or with too much force.

Maintenance and Repair

Maintain and repair your screen doors in the same way as window screens. Keep the hinges of both screen and storm doors oiled and tight, and lubricate the door closers once a year. Check that the latches work well. Replace hardware, glass, and screens as necessary. In addition, replace the clips holding the screens and glass in place if they become bent, broken, or lost.

Replacement parts are usually available at building supply centers and hardware stores. Because each manufacturer's hardware may be slightly different, be sure the replacement part will fit your particular door.