Silverfish 
(1/2" long) One of the most common household pests, silverfish are slender with long antennae and 3 tail-like cerci. They may live throughout the house from basement to attic. Silverfish eat starches, cellulose and vegetable-based materials, thus causing damage to foods, paper, books, wallpaper and many fabrics. Silverfish are covered with shiny scales similar to scales found on the wing of a moth.
- Silverfish are small, elongated, triangular insects that are typically a shiny gray or silver color. They have three characteristic long, thin appendages extending from the rear of the abdomen.
- Silverfish live in cracks and voids and feed on fungal molds and organic matter. They will damage natural fabrics, paper, and book bindings.
- It is common for silverfish to be found in larger numbers in attics, basements, and crawlspaces. They are also common outdoors in southern states.
- Homes with cedar shake roofs seem to experience more serious infestations of silverfish. This may be due to the additional molds that form on these type of shingles. More available food results in more silverfish.
Inside, silverfish will be seen occasionally or on a regular basis in kitchens and bathrooms. They may be seen in other rooms, of course.
- Treatment of cracks and voids and attic and crawlspaces is necessary to minimize silverfish. This pest, however, is one of the most difficult insects to totally eliminate even for a professional company.
Clothes Moth
(approx. 3/16" - 1/4" long) Small and buff colored, the clothes moth is often seen in dimly lit areas at night. The moths themselves do no damage. However, moths lay eggs that hatch into small white worm-like larvae. The larva feeds on fabrics made of wool and silk.
The larva of the webbing clothes moth leaves strands of silk tubing or damaged fibers. Case making clothes moth larvae spin finely silk cases that will be seen on fabrics.
Proper cleaning of affected fabrics is critical in controlling these pests. Treatments of closets, chests, or dressers are often necessary to control adult moths to prevent reinfestation. Clothes moth monitoring traps are available that can be hung in closets to provide early detection of clothes moth infestations.
Beetles
Carpet Beetle (approx. 1/8" long) The varied, common, and black carpet beetles all damage woolen rugs, woolen clothing, furs and skins, as well as a variety of stored food products. These pests avoid open places and often damage rugs under heavy furniture and along wall moldings. Larvae are small, short, hairy and wormlike. Black carpet beetle larvae are reddish-brown in color and have a tuft of long hair extending from their tails. Carpet beetles can be found throughout a house; therefore, they can be difficult to control. Proper storage and regular cleaning of woolen, silk and natural fiber clothing in helpful in preventing damage to these valuable items.
Flour Beetle (1/8" - 3/16" long) These reddish brown flour beetles feed on stored food products such as flour, meal, prepared mixes, breakfast foods, nuts, dog food, bird seed, and spices. They contaminate as well as destroy millions of dollars of food each year. Control is achieved by identifying and throwing out infested goods. Food items such as flour, pastas, cereals, and pet food should be in glass or plastic containers soon after purchasing.
Powder Post Beetles (1/8" - 1/4" long) Powder post beetles, reddish brown or black in color, damage a wide variety of seasoned or finished wood products such as flooring, furniture and structural wood. They enter the house by flying in or by being brought in with wood products. Piles of fine dust, as well as small holes in the wood often indicate their presence. Since there are many species of wood boring beetles, an expert is needed for accurate identification and control. Control is most effectively achieved through replacement of damaged wood or structural foundation.
House Ants
Over 20 species of ants (approx. 1/16" - 1/4" long) may invade structures from their nests outside. Ants may nest in soil, in wood, under concrete areas, in walls or in cabinets. The workers vary in size and may forage long distances for food and water. Ants may contaminate foods by their presence. Ant nests must be eliminated to give effective control.
Mosquito
Mosquitoes (approx. 1/4" long) breed in stagnant water, where the eggs hatch into larvae. In the U.S. adult mosquitoes of some species can transmit encephalitis to people. Mosquito control is usually a community and public health project, but around homes, eliminate items that may collect and hold water and change the water in bird baths every two days.
If mosquitoes are bothersome at backyard events, personal repellents are the best solution. Bug "zappers" attract few mosquitoes but are effective at capturing other types of flying insects. Keep "zappers" away from areas of activity, such as the deck or swimming pool.
Flying Ant
Flying ants (1/4" - 1/2" long) are the reproductives of the ant colonies. They look very much like swarming termites. Flying ants differ from the termite swarmer in that they have a slender pinched waist, and have two long wings with two short wings underneath. All four wings of a termite are equal in length and are twice the length of the body.
Crickets
The tan house cricket (3/4" long) is found in warm, damp, dark places such as shrubs, grass, basements or crawl spaces. Active mostly at night, they will eat almost anything they can chew, and they usually enter a building from harborages outside.
Field crickets are black or brown and can range in size from 3/8-inch to over 1-inch in length. Crickets are often attracted in large numbers to outdoor lights, and they then enter through cracks in the buildings' exterior. Changing outdoor lighting to yellow "bug" lights(domes) or sodium vapor lamps(commercial buildings) attract fewer crickets.
Removing heavy vegetation and items on the ground next to the building eliminates potential cricket harborages. Sealing exterior cracks in the building excludes them from entering. When large numbers of crickets are present, exterior treatments by a professional are often warranted.
Millipede
Millipedes (1" - 2" long) have a hard worm-like body lined with two pairs of legs for each body segment. They feed on decaying organic matter in moist areas under shrubs, leaves and in lawns. Millipedes become annoying house pests as they enter homes during weather extremes (ex. dry weather, heavy rains).
Eliminating potential harborages next to or near the foundation is critical to long term relief from millipedes. Items such as thick landscape mulch, leaf letter, heavy ground cover, and items on the ground, should be removed.
In the case of millipede "migrations," where thousands of millipedes are involved, the services of a professional are usually needed.
Pillbug
Pillbugs (1/4" - 3/8" long) are found in lawn turf, under leaves or other moist areas of decaying vegetable matter. Extremes of wet, dry or hot weather may drive them inside, where they do no damage, but are an annoyance. Pillbugs roll into a ball or "pill" when they are disturbed. Keeping mulch to a layer no thicker than 2 inches and cleaning up leaf litter is the key to long term prevention of this pest.
Earwig 
Earwigs (3/4" - 1 _" long) were named by a superstition that the insect would crawl purposely in the ears of sleeping people. Easily recognized by its forceps-like tail appendage, the earwig is a major garden pest, as well as an annoying house pest. It is one of the few solitary insects that takes care of its young. Earwigs feed on green plants and other vegetation, and do little damage indoors. The pinch of their forceps is neither painful nor poisonous.
- The European earwig is common the eastern United States west to Illinois and is found in Oregon and Washington.
- This insect is long in shape and is recognized by the forcep-like cerci extending from the rear of its abdomen. On males, the forceps can be quite large and ornate.
- Earwigs are omnivores that will catch and eat other insects. These insects live together often in large numbers in tree holes, in landscape mulch, under landscape timbers, and under objects lying on the ground. They will also harbor in the exterior cracks of buildings from which they may wander inside.
- Long term relief from these insects is achieved by finding and treating the harborages outside from which the home will be invaded.
House Centipede
The house centipede (1" - 2" long) has a worm-like body with a pair of long slender antennae and 15 pairs of legs. Often called "hundred leggers", it runs rapidly, holding its body well elevated above the surface. They feed on spiders and other insects, are usually found in damp basements, and do not damage food or furnishings.
Controlling this pest involves identifying and treating the voids or cracks where the centipedes are hiding.
House Fly
House flies (1/4" long) are the most common of house pests. They not only rate high as a nuisance, but are a constant threat to our health by carrying disease organisms from filthy habitats to contaminate food. Flies may carry bacteria on their bodies which can then be transferred to food. They breed in garbage, dog feces, grass clippings and in other decomposing plant and animal matter. Maintain trash containers with tight-fitting lids and regularly clean up dog feces in the yard. Keep doors and windows closed unless equipped with tight-fitting screens.
Pest Proofing
Almost all pest and rodent infestations begin outside buildings. Pests enter through holes and cracks in the home's exterior. How a home is constructed can greatly affect which pest problems you experience. Here are some tips for "pest-proofing" your house.
- Reduce shelters such as piles of bricks or lumber and leaf litter.
- Keep ground cover at least 18" from the home's foundation.
- Trim trees and shrubs so they do not touch the home.
- Use yellow "bug lights" to attract fewer insects.
- Ventilate the spaces under decks and sheds.
- Don't keep pet food outside on patios or decks.
- Keep pets either in or out. Dogs and cats that run in and out are more likely to carry fleas into the house.
- Keep gutters unclogged and repair any areas that get poor drainage.
- Ventilate the attic and basement crawlspace to minimize excess moisture and humidity.
Spruce Galls
What are Spruce Galls?
Gall Adelgids cause wood galls to form on spruce tree branches. The galls, which change from green in early summer to brown in late summer, are pineapple-shaped and resemble cones.
Keeping Gall Adelgids in Check
- Water plants weekly when rainfall is less than one inch. Plants with an adequate moisture supply are naturally more resistant to insect and disease problems.
- Fertilize adequately to promote healthy plants.
Scale Insects
What Are Scale Insects?
The first signs of a scale problem are leaf yellowing, branch die back and general decline of the plant. Although very small, scale insects are usually present in large numbers. They form what looks like a crust on branches, twigs, and leaves. Scale insects extract sap and nutrients from the plant, weakening it and making it more susceptible to winter damage and drought stress.
Scale Insect Control
Scale control begins with a horticultural oil spray in the fall, winter or spring for protection against over-wintering adults. Treatment continues with sprays throughout the summer to control the crawler stages of scale. It may take a minimum of 2 years to establish good control for plants infected by scale insects. Here are some helpful hints for controlling scale insects:
- Follow a sound fertilization program
- Water thoroughly in dry months to maximize plant vigor.
Japanese Beetles
What Are Japanese Beetles?
Japanese beetles can be a devastating insect to many plants in the landscape. The adult beetle feeds on leaves of many ornamental plants, including: crabapple, crape myrtle, linden, purple leaf plum, flowering cherry, and Japanese maple. This insect pest occurs in the Eastern U.S. (Northeast to Southeast and into the Midwest) but continues to move westward. The adult beetle is about 1/2" long with a bright metallic green head and mid-section. Coppery brown wings covers do not completely cover the body, leaving exposed a row of five spots of white hairs down each side of body.
Damage from Japanese Beetles
The Japanese beetle overwinters as a partially grown grub in the soil. In early spring, the grub resumes feeding on turfgrass roots. Pupation occurs near the soil surface where the grub transforms into the colorful adult beetle stage. Adult emergence occurs as early as the last of May in the Southeast and as late at mid-July in the Midwest.
On ornamentals, it is the adult beetle feeding on the leaves that causes damage. Beetles have tremendous appetites, feeding for 30-45 days. These beetles are leaf-skeletonizers, eating everything but the leaf veins, leaving a lace-like skeleton. Often the feeding becomes so great that plants look like they have been scorched by fire. This extensive damage not only reduces the plant's aesthetic value but also reduces plant vigor. The grub stage can seriously damage and kill large areas of turfgrass. Damaged turfgrass will easily roll back like a carpet.
Control of Japanese Beetles
Control of Japanese beetles can be very difficult for several reasons:
- Adult beetles are very mobile and can move in from non-controlled areas.
- Feeding occurs over a long time and on many plants.
- Japanese beetle populations can be extremely high.
- Some feeding may occur before control is achieved with certain pesticides.
- Grub control applications to the lawn will not eliminate beetles from the landscape.
- Chemical Control is the best means to minimize the damage caused by Japanese beetles. Since feeding occurs over a long time, more than one application may be required. Some pesticides will stop beetle feeding, but beetles may still be present.
- Traps are not successful in controlling Japanese beetles and may, in fact, encourage a greater number of beetles on a property.
Gypsy Moths
What Are Gypsy Moths?
Gypsy moths are actually caterpillars that feed on the leaves of many different trees and ornamental shrubs in the spring and early summer. These caterpillars are capable of consuming large amounts of foliage quickly, causing severe defoliation to even very large trees. Their presence can also be a nuisance, with unattractive, tan egg cases on stems of leaves.
Damage by Gypsy Moths
Trees attacked by gypsy moths can become weakened and susceptible to borers and severe winter temperatures. While healthy, unstressed hardwoods can withstand a single defoliation without serious damage, evergreens are often killed by just one complete defoliation. Since each gypsy moth egg mass contains as many as a thousand eggs, a population can increase to a damaging level in a short time.
Cytospora Canker
What Are Cytospora Canker?
This canker disease (caused by a fungus) occurs most frequently on stressed spruces, or those over the age of 15 years. Although the disease seldom kills the plant outright, it destroys the beauty of the tree by killing branches, especially lower branches. Fungicides are not effective in controlling this disease. Root zone fertilization and watering will improve plant vigor and help ward off the fungus.
Prevention of Cytospora Canker:
- Dead and dying branches should be removed as soon as possible.
- Sterilize pruning tools between each cut with denatured alcohol or a 10% solution of bleach and water to prevent spreading the disease.
- Avoid injury to tree limbs.
- Follow a regular program of fertilization and watering to promote vigorous growth.
Aphids
What Are Aphids?
These tiny pests can do a great deal of harm to the beauty of plants in a very short time. Usually present in large numbers, aphids literally suck the sap from the leaves and growing tips of plants. Curling, distortion, and stunting can result. Aphids also secrete honeydew, a shiny, sticky substance that drips over the plant parts and attracts ants. To make matters worse, a black fungus (called sooty mold) often grows on the honeydew.
Controlling aphids
- Because aphids move from plant to plant and regenerate quickly, they are hard to control. Insect sprays will lower the populations to a non-damaging level. If aphids do not respond to sprays, call your lawn professional.
- To get rid of honeydew and sooty mold, simply wash it from your plants with your garden hose.
Sod Web Worms
What Are Sod Web Worms?
Sod web worms are the larval or caterpillar stage of a small, tan moth often seen flying over the turf in early evening from May through mid-summer. Sod web worms feed on the grass blades just above the soil line. The feeding defoliates the lawn where the sod web worms chew off the grass.
Sod web worms feed at night and hide in the thatch during the day. Presence of the larvae may not be noticed until significant damage has occurred. Large numbers of tan moths on your lawn in the early evening may be evidence of sod web worm infestation.
Controlling Sod Web Worms
- Thatch maintenance at less than 3/4 inch thickness is helpful in decreasing the chance of sod web worm activity.
- Watering the lawn to prevent drought stress also is helpful.
- If you notice large numbers of moths on your lawn, or small spots where grass blades have been chewed away, contact your lawn care specialist. Your specialist can identify any insect problems and advise you as to the correct action.
Mole Crickets
What Are Mole Crickets?
Mole crickets are one of the most destructive insects of lawn turf in the Southeastern United States. All warm-season grasses can be attacked by mole crickets. However, bahiagrass and Bermuda grass are damaged most severely. Mole crickets damage turfgrass by tunneling and by direct feeding. Their tunneling action loosens the soil so that the grass is uprooted and dies. As they burrow through the soil, they also leave mounds of dirt on the surface. Mole crickets may also feed directly on the grass root systems, which can seriously weaken the plant.
Controlling Mole Crickets
Insecticides are currently the best control method for mole crickets in turfgrass. Even with the proper product application, control may be limited due to unfavorable temperatures, lack of soil moisture, or both. Irrigation is essential following the application of a spray or granular material to ensure that the material is carried into the root zone where the mole crickets are feeding and tunneling.
Fire Ants
What Are Fire Ants?
Fire ants are dangerous, especially to small children and pets. Their vicious stings are painful and may lead to infection. Fire ants make their home in turfgrass environments--parks, playgrounds, golf courses, pastures and lawns like yours. All grass areas are susceptible to invasion by fire ants, regardless of grass species. In addition to being harmful to people and pets, fire ants damage your lawn. Their unsightly mounds smother grass, make mowing difficult, and chip mower blades. Their underground galleries or tunnels disturb roots, dry the soil and cause the grass to thin out.
Controlling Fire Ants
Fire ants are also very hard to control. It may take several applications to bring these pests under control. Homeowners and pets will need to stay off the lawn after each application until lawn is dry. Fire ant problems only get worse if they're not stopped. Given the difficulty of stopping fire ants, give serious consideration to bringing in a lawn care professional.
Chinch Bugs
What Are Chinch Bugs?
Chinch bugs are tiny insects, which suck the juices from grass plants. If present in large numbers, chinch bugs can kill large areas or even entire lawns. Their small size makes chinch bugs difficult to detect until lawn damage is noticed. Chinch bugs reproduce in large numbers and can reproduce several times in one season. The insect thrives in hot and dry weather conditions. Thus, turfgrasses are weakened by the same weather that increases the damage caused by chinch bug feeding. The damage is usually permanent and requires renovation by seeding or sodding.
Thatch can be a contributing factor. Thatch provides a natural cover for chinch bug activity. Thick thatch layers also cause turfgrasses to be more stressed by hot, dry weather. Thatch management is part of insect damage prevention. Watering once or twice a week and watering heavily each time is helpful in preventing chinch bug damage. The water increases the hardiness of the turfgrass and provides a less favorable environment for the insects. Your lawn care specialist can advise you as to the proper actions for chinch bugs.
Tent Caterpillars
What Are Tent Caterpillars?
Spring is the time to watch out for harmful tent caterpillars. These pests build silky webs in branch forks of several trees. Then they travel along the branches to feast on the tender leaves of your valuable trees. If left uncontrolled, the caterpillars will strip the branches of leaves in a very short time.
Controlling Tent Caterpillars
The pests can be effectively controlled with a regular spray program. Ask your lawn care professional about a regular program.
Spider Mites
What Are Spider Mites?
Spider Mites can be a major problem on many woody ornamental plants. Feeding by spider mites causes discoloration, dirty appearance and early leaf drop. Spider mites are related to spiders, having eight legs. These pests are extremely small and are difficult to detect unless viewed with a 10X hand lens. Dormant periods are spent as adult females in protected places (plant or mulch debris) or as eggs. Under appropriate conditions adults resume activity or eggs hatch. Many generations can occur over a single season. Adult females can live for several weeks, laying many eggs daily. Mite development, from eggs to adults, occurs within days, which accounts for rapid build up of large damaging populations on plants.
How Spider Mites Cause Damage
Spider mites have needlelike mouth parts, which pierce cells and suck fluids out. The feeding action causes fine stippling or flecking of foliage. With large mite populations on plants, entire leaves can become yellow or bronze. Presence of shed skins, eggs, and mites give the foliage a dirty appearance. Sometimes, spider mites will spin very fine webs on the plant. These webs are not the coarse webbing produced by common garden spiders. Damage caused by spider mites not only affects the appearance and aesthetic value of the plant, but also its health and vigor. Early leaf drop can occur with some mite-infested plants.
Checking for Spider Mites
To check for the presence of spider mites, hold a white piece of paper under a branch. Shake the branch to dislodge mites onto the paper. If present, these specks will begin to move after a few seconds.
Plants Vulnerable to Spider Mites
Plants commonly damaged by spider mites include: arborvitae, azalea, beech, birch, boxwood, citrus, elm, euonymus, hemlock, holly, honey locust, juniper, maple, Mexican orange, pine, pyracantha, oak, redwood, rose and spruce.
Controlling Spider Mites
- Early detection and treatment is the key to control.
- Once populations build to damaging levels, control is difficult.
- Spray coverage of both leaf surfaces as well as stems is critical for mite control.
- Horticultural oils will help, applied both dormantly and in-season.
- For mites that do not overwinter on host plants, dormant oils may not work.
- Several applications of miticides may be necessary.
Moles
Moles live in the soil and feed on insects, earthworms, and other soil dwelling food sources. Their active tunneling under the soil surface can cause lawn damage as moles forage for food. The tunnels create ridges of soil throughout the lawn. The uplifted grass growing in these ridges often dies. Lawn mowers may scalp grass growing on the raised tunnels. Moles can tunnel at the rate of one foot per minute. These foraging tunnels may radiate randomly throughout the lawn. Moles live in deep tunnels, 5 to 15 inches below the surface, where nesting and sleeping areas are formed. Moles are nocturnal. It is rare to see any tunneling activity during the day. New tunnels are made at night while moles are feeding.
Controlling Moles
The only effective control for moles is trapping. Although trapping moles is the only realistic control, it is difficult to predict where to set the traps. Traps are activated by movement of the mole in the tunnel where traps are placed over active tunnels. Moles usually do not use the same surface feeding tunnels, and their deeper tunnels are difficult to locate.
Skunks and Raccoons
Skunks probe the soil with their noses when looking for food, uprooting small areas of turf. Raccoons pull up the turf with their front paws as they search for food. A favorite food of both of these animals is white grubs, but their digging in a lawn does not necessarily mean grubs are present. Skunks and raccoons will also feed on insects and worms other than white grubs.
Controlling Skunks and Raccoons
It is not environmentally sound to apply an insecticide to stop animals from foraging in a lawn. If grubs are not present, applying insecticide will have no effect on animal activity, and they will continue to tear up the lawn in search of food. Trapping raccoons and skunks with live animal traps is the only way to remove unwanted animals from the area. In some neighborhoods, there may be too many animals for live-trapping and removal to be effective. Because trapping wild animals involves some risk, it is recommended that wildlife control officials or animal control companies be contacted. Using poison baits and gases have a low success rate and can be harmful to people and pets. |
